I’d
forgotten how rural and old and dreamlike Port Townsend is, how the old brick
and stone buildings that line Water Street at the base of a high cliff seem to
permanently gaze into the dreams and aspirations of the late 19th century,
when high-masted ships like the Glory of the Seas or the Susie T. Plummer lay
at anchor in the waters by Union Wharf and bars and bordellos provided
entertainment for the sailors and bolstered the booming economy. Port Townsend
is quintessentially western, but salt air and fresh breezes blowing in from the
Strait of Juan de Fuca ruffle the puddles and invigorate the nerves, imbuing
everything with a distinctly marine character. Even if you don’t sail or dive
or do much in the water except drink it and look at it occasionally the
vastness that is the ocean reddens the brick and makes the glass shine harder.
Roberta
and I rolled into town about 2:30 last Friday afternoon and looked for a
place to get a snack. We’d gone to Port Townsend to visit a friend and just
relax, just be somewhere different than Seattle for a day or two and spend the
night in a hotel. We love hotels. Motels, too, but mostly hotels. There is just
something inherently fun about spending a night in a hotel. We parked in a lot
outside a promising series of shops, the largest of which was quaintly named
Quimper Mercantile, on Water Street, which is a community-owned company. People
of the Quimper Peninsula own shares in it. Quimper Mercantile didn’t have the
kind of snacks we were looking for, but they seemed to have a colossal
miscellany of everything else: shoes, bed linens, towels, fishing gear, jack
knives, fat woolly socks, climbing carabiners, boots, raincoats, frying pans
and gardening supplies. It served the purpose of an old-timey general store.
Outside,
while we standing on the curb wondering where to go next in our search for
snacks, a friendly woman who had overheard our request for beverages and snacks
gave us directions to a small deli called Getables, a few doors down past
Taylor, offering cheese and pickles and baked goods and a variety of beverages.
I fished out a concoction of mandarin orange from a barrel-shaped container
full of ice while Roberta nabbed some water and two sandwich halves stuffed
with lettuce and turkey. We paid for our "getables" at a
beautiful counter of wooden laminate. I remarked on the counter to the owner
who told me he’d bought it at IKEA and then added that he’d coated it heavily
with polyurethane, which gave it a high gloss. It looked new, but was over a
year old.
We’d made
reservations online at the Washington Hotel, which we located between a dealer
in rare books on the north side - Rare
And Antique And Collectible Books - and a boutique of
vintage clothing to the south which wrapped around the corner. The boutique was
aptly named the Wandering Wardrobe. We found the address and sign for the
Washington Hotel, inscribed in modest black letters on a white background, but
no grand entryway, not even a lobby. Roberta punched in a code and the door
opened. We walked up a long flight of beige carpeted steps at the top of which
a giant fleur-de-lis reposed on a small table. Our room was toward to the back.
Classical music played on the radio and CD player adjacent upturned wine
glasses and coffee mugs. An abstract painting of white and black hung above the
commode. From a distance it looked like zebra skin, but upon closer examination
it looked more like black water moving sinuously among chunks of pure white
ice. A blue vase with a bouquet of cattails reposed on an end-table to the
north of the bed. I looked out onto the graveled parking lot, where our rental
car was parked in front of an old wooden door upon which was written
“Overweight Mermaids,” underneath which a large white arrow pointed to the
south, ostensibly to another cellar door that was hidden from view. It was odd
not seeing anyone as we got situated in our room. It felt as if the hotel were
run by fairies who chose to remain invisible.
It was, as advertised, a quiet room.
I wasn’t sure whether the adjacent building of antique cars was intended as a
warehouse, a garage, or a parts shop dealing mainly in retail in which old men
with crinkly faces and white hair sprinkled astute queries with colloquies of
helpful advice. However, I could not see any human activity, just murky
silhouettes of what appeared to be machinery, oil cans or transmissions. I
tried closing the blinds, but the cord wouldn’t budge. I fussed with it a
little, pulled the valence out a little and tried to peer through the little
hole through which the cords ran, but couldn’t see any switch or gear or toggle
I could try to loosen. The cords remained as frozen in place as if they’d been
nailed to the window sill. Well, I thought, why worry if there’s no one in the
antique car building. It was a continuing frustration, however, to look at
those cords and not believe that there was probably something very simple I was
overlooking, some little switch or button, and so bring the slats down with a
mild clutter and bring shade and privacy into our room. Roberta speculated it
might even work by remote, like the radio and TV, but there were only the two
remotes for the radio and TV. No wand or doodad that might be connected with
window blinds.
I have
trouble with gadgets. I have trouble with icons. I don’t understand what
they’re intended to mean. The windows on our rented Camry were electronic, and
all but the windows on the driver’s side refused to go down. I thought the
wiring had gone awry, but discovered later, while we were waiting for the
Seattle ferry that the two little icons representing padlocks that were
indented in white on the two little buttons above the small levers
that maneuvered the windows up and down, locked and unlocked the windows.
Locking car doors made obvious sense, but windows? What was the purpose of
locking windows? Roberta surmised that it had to do with keeping little
kids from playing with the windows and falling out of the car. I found the
lack of a manually operated window and all this electronic gadgetry maddening.
I was used to muscling the windows up and down on our old Subaru, not to
mention every car I'd owned in the past. This dependency on
electronics unsettles me. I like levers and buttons. I like things you can push and pull. I like dexterity. I like engagement. I like the joy and sensuality of a well-designed object. I am especially
perturbed, as in the case with our new dishwasher, when even the buttonness of buttons go
missing and there is only the mere implication of a button on an otherwise smooth surface of shiny plastic. Pressing a sign or
an abstract image instead of a tangible device is disquieting.
I need physicality. I need solidity. A world of pure signage makes me nervous. I know how
slippery signs and symbols can be. Here, at least, was something tangible to press. I
clicked the “off” icon and Roberta’s window rolled down with a gentle hum. Sea
breezes wafted through the car. I could hear the ruffle of paper as the
whitehaired woman in sunglasses read the Sunday paper in the white Lexus parked
in the lane to our left.
It felt
good to walk around Port Townsend. The pace was decidedly slower than Seattle,
and the people appeared to be normal people, not the zombie-android-smartphone
addicts I see on Seattle’s sidewalks and streets staring fixedly in hypnotic
trances at a smartphone or iPad. And they were friendly. People offered
information with gladness and zest. There were no homeless people, no one
cadging money. Everyone seemed to feel very much at home. I counted at least
five bookstores, high glass windows in Victorian buildings of brick and stone
revealing the spines and tantalizing covers of hundreds of books, including
stacks of Priscilla Long’s The Writer’s Portable Mentor: A Guide to Art,
Craft, and the Writing Life. I felt simultaneous ascensions of joy, nostalgia,
and loss in seeing all these bookstores and living testaments to the enduring
invention of the book, colophons and vellum and luscious Moroccan binding inviting
the eyes and fingers for communion with the word, the beautiful printed word.
Not the word behind the cold corporate plastic of a computer screen, but words
embedded in paper. Fully committed words. Printed words. Words in frigate
cohesion creaking with yardarm ideas. Words between visions and propositions.
Between funny feelings, heady sensations and radical speculations. Between
firm, tangible covers. Between tender buttons. Between fables and caves.
Port
Townsend appears to be a remarkably literary town, which may be either a cause
of, or side effect of, Copper Canyon Press and the annual arts festival called
Centrum. Centrum, unlike Seattle’s Bumbershoot, where the literary arts have
all but disappeared and have always been treated like the poor bedraggled
cousin to the pop music acts which now dominate the fair, continues to showcase
the literary arts.
Roberta
got up early on Saturday morning. She made coffee and read Colin Jone's Paris:
The Biography of a City, making herself comfortable on the gigantic leather
covered daybed in the spacious sitting room. The bedroom was filled with sunlight.
As soon as we got dressed we went out to have breakfast at Sweet Laurette’s.
Roberta looked it up on her smartphone, which gave her a google map in
diminished size. Only one of the streets were named. The restaurant looked
further away than I’d imagined. We walked south on Washington street to the
Haller Fountain, a half-naked young woman in dark bronze strides gracefully
forward above two cherubs riding monstrous fish, an apparent hybrid between
dolphins and demonic goldfish, water arching from their snouts, the cherubs
blowing into conch shells from which water also jets in spritely arcs
of fountain classicism. The woman holds a swatch of thin drapery above her
head, her right arm in a graceful upward curve, her left arm descending gracefully
to her hand, whose fingers extend delicately in feminine charm. The
fountain was the donation, in 1906, of Theodore N. Haller, intended to honor
his deceased father and brother. Haller’s dedication speech included a poem
about the Greek sea nymph Galatea. The statue first appeared in 1893 at the
World Columbian Exposition in Chicago. It is said that a local bar owner in
Port Townsend named Charlie Lang placed trout in the pool at the bottom of the
statue and trained them to jump through hoops. The Taylor Street stairs behind
the fountain lead to the uptown business district, where Sweet Laurette’s is
located.
We found
Sweet Laurette’s easily enough, but it was about 7:15 a.m. and restaurant
didn’t open for breakfast until 8:00 a.m. We sat on a bench in front of the
restaurant but it was too shaded and chilly so we got up and walked around.
Roberta noticed a crow pecking at a freshly killed mouse. The crow picked up
the mouse and flew to the corner of the building across the street.
We visited
an old yellowish clapboarded building that looked like a grange hall but was in
fact a movie theater. Today’s feature was Man of Steel. The agitations
of the crow we’d seen earlier caught our attention and we saw a young gray cat
playing with the dead mouse which the crow must have dropped from his perch on
the corner of the building. We wondered if it was sheer carelessness on the part of
the crow, or if the crow had seen the cat and dropped the mouse in order to get
her teased and agitated. The crow hunched down and let loose a barrage of
squawks on the cat while the cat pranced around the mouse not quite sure what
to do with it. She eventually surrendered the mouse and the crow flew it to the
top of another building.
Port
Townsend’s Rose movie theater, which first opened in 1907, was close to our
hotel, but we hadn’t time to go see a movie there this time around, which
didn’t matter, as we’d already seen the feature film, Mud, with Mathew
McConaughey, which is a damn good movie. The main character is none other than
the Mississippi River. Mud is an appropriate title for this movie. The
imagery is so visually intense you can smell the water and catfish, you can
feel the current and the pain and bewilderment and joy in the voices of the
people. You can feel what it’s like to start an outboard motor and the complex
emotions of being betrayed and loved by a woman simultaneously, in very much
the same way a river brings sweetness and bounty but can also kill you.
Sweet
Laurette opened its doors where a small group of hungry people had gathered. A
young woman led Roberta and I to a table in the center of the small restaurant
and gave us some menus. I was leaning toward pancakes when we first entered,
but started worried about calories and being stuck in a car all day and gaining
weight, and written in small letters beneath the three offerings of pancake
(Lemon Ricotta Pancakes, Lemon and Blueberry Dutch Baby, Apple and
Pear Dutch Baby) was the warning that it may take a little extra time to get
these dishes made. I decided to go high protein and ordered a Croque Madam,
“all natural honey baked ham, gruyere cheese, two fried eggs and mayo-Dijon
spread on griddled sourdough, served with griddled potatoes.” Roberta ordered
the Farmer’s Market Scramble which consisted of griddled potatoes and toast
and whatever the “season dictates” in the way of fruit and vegetables. June was
dictating cantaloupe and honeydew melon. Roberta said
the potatoes weren't quite crispy enough for her taste, and the coffee
could have been a little stronger, but everything else was fabulous.
The wait
staff at Sweet Laurette’s were all women and were liberal with the coffee,
which I thought was strong and tasty. I noticed some odd scripture tattooed on
the wrist of a young woman refreshing my mug of coffee and asked her what
language that was. I thought it might be Hebrew. She said it was Sanskrit, and
was a prayer from the Bhagavad Gita meaning, roughly, oh lord please remove all
illusion so that I may see the truth. I told the waitress that we may be
illusions and she cracked up laughing.